Milan to Lake Como, the Slow Way

The drive from Milan to Lake Como takes 50 minutes on the motorway. But that is not the point. The point is the road that hugs the western shore — the Strada Regina — where the villas appear between the cypresses and the lake holds the light differently at every bend.

Where to begin

We recommend starting in Como town — a coffee at the lakefront, a walk through the silk district — before heading north. The drive up the western shore to Tremezzo and Bellagio takes an unhurried hour if you stop twice. You will want to stop twice.

Viewpoints worth the pause

Villa del Balbianello (Lenno) is the most photographed building on the lake. Visit in the morning before the tour groups arrive. The gardens cascade directly into the water. Bellagio, at the fork of the lake, is unavoidable and rightfully so — 20 minutes on foot through the steep lanes is enough to understand why people return every year. Varenna, on the eastern shore, requires a short ferry crossing and rewards you with a village that feels genuinely unaffected by tourism.

Where to lunch

Ristorante La Darsena at Villa d'Este in Cernobbio is the luxury option — reserve well in advance. For something more intimate, Osteria del Beuc in Laglio is a 10-table room with lake trout, local wine and no pretension.

The return to Milan

Traffic back into Milan builds from 5 p.m. on weekdays. If you want a relaxed return, plan to leave the lake by 4 p.m. or accept an early dinner in Como town and return after 7 p.m. when the motorway clears. Your driver will know the timing — we've done this run hundreds of times.

The right car for Como

The Strada Regina is narrow in places and the tunnels are low. The Mercedes S-Class is the choice for two — the V-Class if you're a family. Either way, the rear seat is where the view is from, and you'll want your hands free for the camera.